A playground of memories

Arasaradi Railway Grounds – A Playground of Memories

Arasaradi Railway Grounds holds many nostalgic memories from my childhood in Madurai. In those days, the stretch of road near the jail leading to the grounds would become almost deserted after sunset. Our parents strictly warned us against venturing there after dark.

One of my earliest memories is of visiting the circuses held here. Coming from the jail side, we had to climb down through a narrow opening in the stone compound wall near a small Kali temple, as the main entrance was on the southern side. Interestingly, the space behind this temple also served as a natural bodybuilding gym for local youngsters.

The small Kali temple that I had seen as a kid has also grown big by the years

I spent many happy days on these grounds playing cricket and football with neighbourhood and school friends. Our school annual sports days held here remains fresh in my memory . The vast open space was also a favourite gathering spot for residents, with hundreds visiting every day for morning walks, jogging and other fitness activities. For decades, it remained freely accessible to the public.

The History Beneath the Grounds

Long before it became a railway sports ground, this expanse was part of a natural seasonal waterbody known as Ganapathiyendal Kanmoi. Historical revenue records identify around 12 acres of the grounds as belonging to this traditional irrigation tank.

1906 municipal map documenting the Ganapatiyendal tank

During the colonial period, as Madurai evolved into an important railway junction, the surrounding lands then known as Puvakuli and Ponmeni along with Ganapathiyendal were developed for railway infrastructure and railway residential colony. Over time, portions of the waterbody were filled up and transformed into the open ground we see today.

The Changing Landscape

The historical land classification has since become the subject of an ownership dispute, with the Madurai district administration approaching the Madras High Court seeking to recover the 12 acres identified as kanmoi land. Interestingly, the Railways reportedly do not appear to possess land records establishing their ownership of this parcel. In other words, the railways has blatantly encroached an urban water body!

More recently, the Railway's proposal to commercially develop the Arasaradi Railway Colony along with this playground triggered the 'Save Railway Ground' movement, led by Madurai MP Su. Venkatesan. Residents, sportspersons and environmentalists have opposed the proposal, emphasising the importance of preserving this precious open space.

Late Mr Solomon Pappiah during the "save railway ground" campaign 

Madurai MP Su. Venkatesan leading the campaign 

Adding to the discontent, Southern Railway's hiking of usage fees for walkers and sports enthusiasts in 2026 has also attracted public criticism. A ground that was once freely accessible to everyone is gradually turning into a fee-based facility. 

For me, Arasaradi Railway Grounds will always be more than a sporting facility or a disputed piece of land. It is a place of childhood adventures, circus visits, school sports days, cricket matches and countless happy memories. Whatever its future holds, I sincerely hope Madurai never loses this wonderful piece of open space.

The European Club of Madurai

 

From the map of 1906

The marking of an “European Club” on a 1906 map of Madurai caught my curiosity. A quick superimposition of the old map onto Google Maps revealed something intriguing: the location appeared to coincide with the present-day site of the century-old Sourashtra Higher Secondary School.

A little further digging uncovered an interesting piece of history. In 1911, the Sourashtra High School Council purchased the buildings of the “Madras Bank and English Club” from the municipal authorities for Rs. 30,000. The foundation stone for the school building was laid in 1917. The magnificent stone structure, reportedly completed over the next twelve years at a cost of Rs. 1.5 lakhs, was ready for students to move in by 1929. Designed by a retired British engineer, the building was constructed through generous community contributions under the supervision of Rastra Bhandu L.K. Thulasiram. Spanning approximately 20,000 square feet, this impressive structure is eclectic in style, blending Islamic and European architectural elements.

Sourashtra school 

The English Club has long since disappeared, but its memory lingers in the neighbourhood. An “Old English Club Market” still exists close to the site, and the locality continues to be known as Santhaipettai (Santapet, as marked on the old map). I wonder if there exists any vintage photographs of the English club on the banks of river Vaigai. 

An intriguing discovery where an old map, a vanished colonial institution and a landmark educational building come together to tell a little-known chapter of Madurai's urban history.

Mirror

 

Coutralam now and then

 Same falls - 200 years apart!  What a mess we have made 😢

Urban façades

 

Clean and simple

 

Urban windows

 

Tipu's summer palace

Tipu Sultan’s Summer Palace, located in the heart of Bengaluru, is one of the finest examples of Indo-Islamic architecture in Karnataka. Originally begun during the reign of Hyder Ali, the palace was completed in 1791 by his son, Tipu Sultan, the ruler of Mysore, who used it as his summer retreat and a place for conducting royal affairs.

The palace is a beautiful two-storeyed structure built mainly with teakwood, stone, mortar and plaster. Its architecture combines Indo-Islamic and traditional Indian elements. The building features elegant cusped arches, intricately carved wooden pillars, ornamental balconies and spacious verandahs. The upper floor has projecting balconies that overlook the garden, while the interiors once displayed colourful floral decorations and elaborate paintings.

Intersections

 

A biriyani legacy of Madurai

If Madurai has a culinary identity of its own, biriyani would certainly be an important part of it. And when it comes to biriyani, few names evoke as much nostalgia and appetite as one of my favorites - Amsavalli Bhavan.

The story of Amsavalli goes back to the early 1950s, with roots tracing even further back to Devakottai. It was in 1952 that Gopal Pillai established the restaurant in Madurai, naming it after his wife, Amsavalli Ammal. What began as a humble family enterprise gradually grew into one of the city's enduring culinary landmarks. Today, the establishment carries forward a legacy, spanning generations.

Located on East Veli Street, in the bustling heart of old Madurai, Amsavalli became particularly famous for its mutton biriyani. Its distinctive preparation, using the fragrant seeraga samba rice, gives the biriyani its own character. The rice, meat and masala come together in a flavour that has earned generations of loyal admirers.

Of course, visiting Amsavalli is not necessarily an exercise in fine dining. The ambience is uncomplicated, the setting unpretentious and the food does most of the talking. After all, when the biriyani arrives, nobody really has the time or inclination to discuss interior design!

Amsavalli's influence extended well beyond Madurai. Whenever some of us travelled to other cities, either by train or by air, it was almost customary to carry a few parcels of biriyani along. After all, why should a good biriyani experience be restricted to Madurai?

I recall a Jet Airways flight from Madurai to Bangalore sometime in 2003 or 04, when we were travelling to attend a building materials exhibition. A few friends ( Late Mr. Balan, contractor friend and a few clients of mine) had dutifully packed their Amsavalli biriyani for the journey. This, however, did not go down well with the airline staff, who objected to passengers eating outside food onboard and filling the flight with a strong biriyani aroma. An argument ensued, with our friends defending their right to enjoy their packed meal. It was quite an unusual situation. Most passengers board a flight looking forward to the in-flight meal, but our gang had already made alternative arrangements! 

During one of our visits to the restaurant around 2003 with some friends, a rather interesting incident unfolded. After a particularly satisfying and heavy biriyani meal, we were on our way out when one of our mutual friends suddenly realised, to his horror, that his gold ring was missing. We immediately rushed back to the restaurant and searched around, but there was no sign of it. Then came a flash of memory. Our friend recalled using the pieces of “cut newspapers” kept near the washbasin to wipe his ghee-soaked fingers after the meal. A desperate rummage through the wastepaper bin followed, and, much to everyone's relief, the ring was discovered tucked away among the discarded papers! Apparently, he had wiped his fingers with such enthusiasm that the ring had joined the newspaper on its journey to the bin. Amsavalli had almost cost him a gold ring, but thankfully, the story had a happy ending. Perhaps the biriyani was simply too good to let go of!

Over the decades, Amsavalli has become more than just a restaurant. It is part of Madurai's food culture, where recipes are inherited, tastes are fiercely defended and every regular customer seems to have a theory about why the biriyani tasted better during their younger days.

Perhaps that is the secret of its longevity. In a world where restaurants reinvent themselves every few years, Amsavalli has largely stayed true to its culinary roots. Its legacy is measured not merely in the number of plates served but in the generations of families who have returned for that familiar taste.

And in Madurai, where people take their food rather seriously, calling somebody else's biriyani better than Amsavalli's can be a risky proposition. Some debates are best avoided, especially when they happen over a plate of mutton biriyani!