If Madurai has a culinary identity of its own, biriyani would certainly be an important part of it. And when it comes to biriyani, few names evoke as much nostalgia and appetite as one of my favorites - Amsavalli Bhavan.
The story of Amsavalli goes back to the early 1950s, with roots tracing even further back to Devakottai. It was in 1952 that Gopal Pillai established the restaurant in Madurai, naming it after his wife, Amsavalli Ammal. What began as a humble family enterprise gradually grew into one of the city's enduring culinary landmarks. Today, the establishment carries forward a legacy, spanning generations.
Located on East Veli Street, in the bustling heart of old Madurai, Amsavalli became particularly famous for its mutton biriyani. Its distinctive preparation, using the fragrant seeraga samba rice, gives the biriyani its own character. The rice, meat and masala come together in a flavour that has earned generations of loyal admirers.
Of course, visiting Amsavalli is not necessarily an exercise in fine dining. The ambience is uncomplicated, the setting unpretentious and the food does most of the talking. After all, when the biriyani arrives, nobody really has the time or inclination to discuss interior design!
Amsavalli's influence extended well beyond Madurai. Whenever some of us travelled to other cities, either by train or by air, it was almost customary to carry a few parcels of biriyani along. After all, why should a good biriyani experience be restricted to Madurai?
I recall a Jet Airways flight from Madurai to Bangalore sometime in 2003 or 04, when we were travelling to attend a building materials exhibition. A few friends ( Late Mr. Balan, contractor friend and a few clients of mine) had dutifully packed their Amsavalli biriyani for the journey. This, however, did not go down well with the airline staff, who objected to passengers eating outside food onboard and filling the flight with a strong biriyani aroma. An argument ensued, with our friends defending their right to enjoy their packed meal. It was quite an unusual situation. Most passengers board a flight looking forward to the in-flight meal, but our gang had already made alternative arrangements!
During one of our visits to the restaurant around 2003 with some friends, a rather interesting incident unfolded. After a particularly satisfying and heavy biriyani meal, we were on our way out when one of our mutual friends suddenly realised, to his horror, that his gold ring was missing. We immediately rushed back to the restaurant and searched around, but there was no sign of it. Then came a flash of memory. Our friend recalled using the pieces of “cut newspapers” kept near the washbasin to wipe his ghee-soaked fingers after the meal. A desperate rummage through the wastepaper bin followed, and, much to everyone's relief, the ring was discovered tucked away among the discarded papers! Apparently, he had wiped his fingers with such enthusiasm that the ring had joined the newspaper on its journey to the bin. Amsavalli had almost cost him a gold ring, but thankfully, the story had a happy ending. Perhaps the biriyani was simply too good to let go of!
Over the decades, Amsavalli has become more than just a restaurant. It is part of Madurai's food culture, where recipes are inherited, tastes are fiercely defended and every regular customer seems to have a theory about why the biriyani tasted better during their younger days.
Perhaps that is the secret of its longevity. In a world where restaurants reinvent themselves every few years, Amsavalli has largely stayed true to its culinary roots. Its legacy is measured not merely in the number of plates served but in the generations of families who have returned for that familiar taste.
And in Madurai, where people take their food rather seriously, calling somebody else's biriyani better than Amsavalli's can be a risky proposition. Some debates are best avoided, especially when they happen over a plate of mutton biriyani!
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