10 silent witnesses of Madurai's history

Pathu Thoon – Ten silent witnesses of Madurai's history 

In 2002, I chanced upon these ten massive stone pillars when a friend took me through a narrow lane in Madurai’s inner city. Not many people from outside the old-town neighbourhoods knew of their existence in those days. What initially appeared to be an unusual row of granite pillars later turned out to be remnants of a fascinating chapter in Madurai’s Nayak history.

Known as "Pathu Thoon" (பத்துத் தூண்/ ten pillars), these imposing columns date back to the 17th century and are believed to have formed part of the grand frontage of Rangavilasam- a magnificent palace said to be associated with Muthiyalu Nayak, the younger brother of King Thirumalai Nayak.

Palace ruins - Thomas Daniell (1749–1840) in collaboration with his nephew William Daniell (1769–1837). Year 1798

Hand-coloured etching and aquatint

Publication: Oriental Scenery, Volume II

Plate XVII

Rangavilasam was once an extensive royal residential complex, with grand courtyards, pillared halls, living quarters and royal apartments befitting the splendour of the Nayak dynasty. While Thirumalai Nayak's celebrated palace (then called Swargavilasam) that survives today served as the principal seat of royal power and  official public court, Rangavilasam was the private royal residences. Together, these structures reflected the architectural ambition and grandeur of Nayak-era Madurai.

The decline of this magnificent complex began with the shifting fortunes of the kingdom. In 1665, Chokkanatha Nayak  moved the capitol from Madurai to Tiruchirappalli. Much of the palace complex was dismantled by Chokkanatha  and historical accounts suggest that valuable architectural components and building materials were transported to Trichy for reuse. Locals ravaged and looted the remaining.Over time, Rangavilasam disappeared, leaving behind only the ten enormous granite pillars as striking reminders of the lost building complex. Standing nearly 40 feet tall, they are remarkable examples of Nayak-era craftsmanship, constructed from massive stacked circular stone blocks. Some locals unaware of their regal past spread false stories that these were pillars built to tie elephants during the nayak era. 

In 1973, these pillars were declared protected archaeological monuments. Yet, their present surroundings offer a rather curious contrast to their royal past. Surrounded by textile shops, modern haphazard buildings and a maze of electrical cables, they stand almost unnoticed in Pathuthoon Sandhu, a bustling commercial lane in the heart of Madurai.

It is remarkable to think that this busy narrow shopping street was once part of a magnificent royal palace. My accidental discovery made me realise that Madurai's history is not confined to its famous temples and celebrated palaces. Sometimes, it survives quietly in the most unexpected corners of its narrow streets. Pathu Thoon is one such forgotten treasure – ten silent giants bearing witness to the grandeur of a lost Nayak architectural masterpiece.